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Finger board reglue?
Need to repair my Violin
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Ron
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May 2, 2014 - 8:44 pm
Member Since: May 2, 2014
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First , thanks for allowing me to become a member of this forum, I have read it along with others and found this one to be the better of ideas with a mixed level of talented people.
I am only a fiddle enthusiast, I am past middle age and have played guitar most my entire life but the violin has always interested me.
I have became the guardian of an old fiddle a while back that needs some repair to make it sing again.
Its is a 4/4 size and is not the best fiddle made and is far from the worst,
No cracks or repairs that I see but has a finger board & nut that need replaced, some new pegs, , bridge and strings.
But first to the finger board.
I am not a fiddle repair man but can fix most anything and probably only need tips that one cannot find that is written.
Like , if the finger board has come off then is my neck suspect of being unglued also or the top ,back and ribs?
It does not appear so but how do I check?
2nd, if just regluing the finger board is all it needs , is there a procedure to check for straightness and height ?
Do I scrape or sand away old hide glue?
I think I should start there with the nut and finger board. then move on to the other parts.
Any advice will be appreciated . I am pretty good with my hands in repairs of things, and have a feel for making things. I would like to get it right the first time.
I never used hide glue but and willing to learn anything new.
Thank you , I am happy to be here.
Ron

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Fiddlerman
Fort Lauderdale
May 3, 2014 - 12:51 pm
Member Since: September 26, 2010
Forum Posts: 11694

Hey Ron and welcome to the forum.
It's far more common that a fingerboard loosens than does a neck. It is most probable that you will only need to glue the fingerboard back on with hide glue. By all means wash off the old hide glue first. To do that you'll want to soften the glue. Some use steam and some just use water. You can wrap a rounded scraper in some rags and use hot water. That usually works great.
Many people actually use sandpaper in the end. You can use micro paper and wet sand at the very end. As long as you don't change the shape, you'll be good.
Working with hide glue is not very difficult and great if you ever need to take anything apart in the future. Obviously it's the only recommended way to go with the fingerboard.

"The richest person is not the one who has the most,
but the one who needs the least."

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Ron
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May 3, 2014 - 1:49 pm
Member Since: May 2, 2014
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Thank yo ufor a reply,
so I should NOT sand the neck surface nor the fingerboard? only use steam and or water on a rag and scrape?
Should I be concerned by the height above the body in the finished finger board? ( I am using the same board, I believe its ebony and when I clean it I will know, if not I plan on buying a new ebony board if this on is a stained hardwood.)
I will have to glue the nut also but plan on making a new one as it appears worn down.

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Fiddlerman
Fort Lauderdale
May 3, 2014 - 8:22 pm
Member Since: September 26, 2010
Forum Posts: 11694

That sounds like a good plan. I can't say for sure that your neck is well set with the correct angle but there are specs for that. I believe it should be around 84 degrees. We have a few people on this site who have put together violins and probably have a book......
Does it appear secure? Can you see any signs of it having moved?

"The richest person is not the one who has the most,
but the one who needs the least."

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Ron
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May 4, 2014 - 8:24 am
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I don't think I have anyway of checking the angle in relation ship to? centerline of body?
I was thinking more in mm or inches above the top of body at end of fingerboard?
Maybe someone that repairs will answer in.
I can see there is a correct height that it probably should be, I figure the reason for the cut outs in the ribs on either side of the body so as not to hinder the bow on the E & G string .
The finger board may not have anything to do with the height , possibly only the neck angle does.
There is a curvature to the neck also , I am sure there is a gauge to go by on this , I have yet to find out about it.
Also I wonder is there a finish for the neck or is it dry untreated wood in what grit finish?
I know its many question only about a finger board , but I would rather not glue it over once.
Thank you
Ron

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Fiddlestix
Michigan, USA
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May 4, 2014 - 11:36 am
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Projected fingerboard height projected to bridge should be 27mm.
I believe that is above the body and the bridge end of the fingerboard.
Here is a link to books that luthier's over the world use for set-up and making stringed instrument's.
You'll want to get the "useful measurement's for violin maker's" book.

http://www.henrystrobel.com/bo.....htm#useful

Good luck, it's a very good book.

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Ron
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May 4, 2014 - 8:53 pm
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Bought the book, I know it will help, thanks.

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Fiddlerman
Fort Lauderdale
May 4, 2014 - 8:56 pm
Member Since: September 26, 2010
Forum Posts: 11694

I believe that Ken is correct. 27mm (1 1/16") when you put a straight edge on the whole fingerboard from where the bridge sits. Measure from the belly up.

"The richest person is not the one who has the most,
but the one who needs the least."

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Fiddlestix
Michigan, USA
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May 4, 2014 - 9:25 pm
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@Ron: I'm sure it will help with all your measurement's. This is the book my luthier uses, in fact I got mine from him.
You also have to realize that these are the basic starting point's and that each instrument is entirely different from the next, even if made by the same hands.

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Ron
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May 5, 2014 - 10:37 am
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I am sure it will be of great use for me, awaiting it arrival.
I am sure the measurement is for a "neutral" height which will change when it is stung and tuned to pitch?
Ron

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