Welcome to our forum. A Message To Our New and Prospective Members . Check out our Forum Rules. Lets keep this forum an enjoyable place to visit.
Currently working on getting badges to show up horizontally. Should hopefully figure that out within a week. Thanks for your patience.








Regulars






My first Chinese VSO had a chinrest with very thin cork that had stuck to the top and back and tore off the rest when I removed it - the chinrest was probably attached before the varnish was 100% dry, so I bought some modellers' cork sheets just in case I ever needed them. I note that with good chinrests the cork is much thicker.
Andrew
Verified human - the ignominy!

Regulars







Oh, just to clarify: the violin in the pictures is a German workshop instrument, about $1,500 value (intermediate to advanced student violin), and I'm saying I believe the chinrest is exactly as it was installed at the workshop. In other words, the chinrest was installed by quite competent people.

Regulars







Sure. I don't think it's possible with most chinrests to avoid going inside the purfling entirely. My viola chinrest also contacts a little inside the purfling, but much less because it's a side mount; the majority of the contact area is outside the purfling. But the idea is to place the chinrest as close to the edge as possible so as to minimize the amount inside the purfling, while still achieving stability.

Regulars








Regulars








Regulars






I bought a Berber, but decided that it didn't quite go with my shoulder rest.
Currently I'm using some kind of brown ebony centre-mounted mini Guarneri that I took off my electric violin. And I am planning to buy a Neu-Kolln.
I know the idea is to buy a few on approval and send the ones you don't like back, but I know that in a year or two I'll have two or three shoulder rests, so the chin-rests will be chosen to suit them.
Andrew
Verified human - the ignominy!
1 Guest(s)

