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Regular advisor

Mad_Wed said
Could You make some video for us so we could listen to it?
I definitely will but first I must learn to play this beast. Maybe I'll need a fingerboard with smaller radius to hit single strings at all, which also means a new bridge and maybe a new nut too.
My plan is also to have it electrified before getting anything on Youtube, so that the acoustic sound can be compared to the the amplified tone, clean as well as distorted.

Regular advisor

Here's a picture of a new bridge I made for it. I chose a viola bridge because I wanted it broad in the bottom. Simplified the shape a bit too.
I've been taught that the fiddle bridge is designed to filter the sound. This instrument already has a dark and mellow sound, so I found that unnecessary. The idea was to get rid of all dead ends, so that as much string energy is transfered into the soundboard. Not sure I can hear any difference, but as long as the sound doesn't get worse, I chose this design for aesthetical reasons. The brass bridge I'm planning will be a lot more simple, more like a cello bridge

Regular advisor


Regular advisor


Regular advisor

The bridge design I'm about to land in will probably be little more than a horseshoe shape. The idea is that it will be a bit heavier than a normal bridge and not flexive. Besides, there will be no dead ends at all, so I hope that it will allow for a maximum of the string energy to be transfered into the soundboard. If I make it as simple as possible, there's a better chance I can tell the difference compared to a standard bridge.
If it doesn't work the way I want it to, ie make the instrument louder and the tone more pronounced, my first action will be to make it thinner so that it vibrates. A bridge seems to have a lot of sound of its own which may contribute to the output volume - or not.
On my electric, I have a stiff construction made from brass and ebony. Compared to the modified maple bridge that I originally used, this one made the instrument more silent acoustically, but there may be other reasons for that. It also gave the instrument a different tone electrically as well as acoustically. Less typically violin like and more compact. I also got rid of some strong and very painful overtones.
My guess is that the non-flexive bridge filters a minimum of the vibrations, so that the sound I have now is more of the pure body sound - and a more or less solid body does have a weak output volume. I believe this one will respond differently to a stiff bridge. The result will probably be more body sound, but the body sound is very different on an acoustic instrument.

Pro advisor
Just wanted to add some info here Svento about your preferred choice of using magnetic pickups instead of piezo. I just recently bought a Taylor acoustic/electric grand auditorium guitar with the Taylor brand Expression System in body magnetic pickup. I was just playing my Taylor through a Marshall AS50D amp and WOW! It sounds great! You may want to looking in to fitting this pickup system in your fat Gretsch looking fiddle.
Here's a link:

Pro advisor

Regular advisor

I think I get it now. It's probably electrodtnamic like Edingers Stringamp. I know a guy amplifying solid fiddles that way but he's sceptical to mounting it on an acoustic instrument - don't ask me why... The problem is that the fingerboard and the back of the body will need to be removed. Very big project.

Honorary tenured advisor


Regular advisor

pky said
I love it, it's beautiful! I think it's a beauty, not a beast! ARe you really considering to electrify it? You know, once you go there, there's no way back for this beauty! Just my opinion.
The only violence would be two holes in the soundboard. One at the end of the fingerboard where the cable goes down, one hidden under the tailpiece where it comes up again. The jack will be mounted in the chinrest.
An unamplified fiddle is little more than no fiddle at all. I want to use it for other purposes than practicing at home.
springer said
Don't forget that all Maple is not the same, a better quality bridge of harder wood can help keep the bridge from splitting. Not tuning to a higher octave is good too.
It's not that any bridge of mine has ever cracked. I hope to get better sound from brass.
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