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MGN - It's warmer now, but raining and blowing and causing all kinds of havoc I hate Winter! Tomorrow will see more work on the Red Fiddle - just a little purfling clean up and I'll close the box.
Kevin - I like the looks of a label with my name on it so much that maybe I rushed it - the box might not get closed in 2011
Mary in Springfield, Oregon http://www.thefiddleandbanjopr.....dpress.com

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Finally got the box (half) closed. As with the SSF, half of the box is being closed at a time to facilitate lining up the ribs, which aren't perfectly vertical in relation to the back and clamping/gluing half at a time is an easy way to push and prod things into shape without having to worry about getting all the way around before the glue starts to set. Also, I don't have that many spool clamps
First fairly weak hide glue* is brushed on both surfaces, not very thickly, and allowed to dry. Or at least firm up, depending on how impatient you are to watch glue dry.
I like the squeezy clamps on the two end blocks as they are easy to place first to hold everything in place for adjustments. 1/4" thick cork pieces under the jaws protect the plates. One more was needed to hold down that darned weird corner. A dry fitting is helpful - then you know where the ribs need to be pushed into place to make nice, even margins.
When everything is lined up to your satisfaction, loosen the clamps, two or three at a time (don't let them fall off!) and dribble a bit of hot water into the gap, pushing the ribs into place if needed, and then tighten them down again. With this method there is minimal glue squeeze-out to clean up later and the only thing that might dribble down into the inside is a bit of water that will soon evaporate. Let the glue dry overnight and do the other half the next day.
* Use nothing but REAL hide glue - the top may need to come off sometime in the future (maybe you will take it off yourself, who knows?) and it will be impossible if you use any other glue. These kits are assembled with something permanent so the bottom will never come off, which is a no-no in violin building.
Mary in Springfield, Oregon http://www.thefiddleandbanjopr.....dpress.com

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Thanks, FM. Building from a kit is quite a bit simpler - wait until you see the steps involved in building from scratch! I've promised the man at my address that I'll get the Red Fiddle finished before starting the next one, but it's hard to wait, especially if the only thing happening is glue drying...
Mary in Springfield, Oregon http://www.thefiddleandbanjopr.....dpress.com

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The glue will set overnight. The other half of the top is drying right now. Next up is to cut the mortise for the neck. Once the neck is glued in the finishing process will begin. I can't wait! The neck mortise for the SFF took a couple of hours, but I didn't actually cut it - the Red Fiddle will have a much prettier neck set, I promise! Actually, I'm still incandescent with rage over the incident, but y'all don't need to hear that kind of bad language
Mary in Springfield, Oregon http://www.thefiddleandbanjopr.....dpress.com

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The neck mortise has finally been cut and the neck will be glued in tomorrow! I've been dithering about this most crucial step because the button was cut quite off center -
I measured, made a template, sketched out where the mortise should be, measured again, made a new template, etc. etc. until I had to step away and give it a break. Today I finally just took a chisel to the darned thing to end the anxiety.
Cutting through the ribs on the cross grain is a bit tricky - the side cuts are made with a small saw, very carefully inside the template lines so the mortise can be made wider if needed. Cutting through the vertical-grained neck block is easier -
And that's where I stopped taking pictures. The mortise is slowly cut deeper and the neck fit into the slot until the parts fit together perfectly with the proper projection of the fingerboard.
I drew lines on the neck heel to be sure it ends up at the proper angle and projection. Is it perfect? Not quite, but it is very nice. Hopefully tomorrow will be warm enough that the glue sets up before dark and I can get some more pictures posted here. Then more sanding/scraping and it's ready for the ground coats - that at least can be done in the cold & wet weather, but varnish has to wait until it's a bit warmer. I do plan to play it a little in the white if the weather stays cold...Video to come
Mary in Springfield, Oregon http://www.thefiddleandbanjopr.....dpress.com

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I think that anyone who endeavors to learn to play the violin has an extra large share of creativity in their DNA. After working so hard to learn how to bow straight (although not on camera, apparently) cutting a neck mortise seems pretty easy Why not try brain surgery next?
Mary in Springfield, Oregon http://www.thefiddleandbanjopr.....dpress.com

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I'm sold. I've played for a week, but I now want to build one. I've looked for kits and have not found any other than that on stewmac and international violin. Also, this video on youtube is quite inspirational. http://www.youtube.com/watch?N.....=endscreen
I've read over this post time and time again and it really makes me want to build one NOW. Thanks for posting it and I look forward to seeing the completed instrument.
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Fiddlerman said
Looks great. Must be hard to be so patient.
It is very hard to always be waiting - waiting for the glue to set up, waiting for warmer weather, waiting for varnish to dry (if it ever gets to that point!) Luckily I have many interests and many projects on-the-go so I can switch off.
Mary in Springfield, Oregon http://www.thefiddleandbanjopr.....dpress.com
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