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so.... i've had my loaner violin for a week now (mine won't be here for another month) and am getting used to the feel of it, etc after a few hours of practice.
obviously, my technique is absolutely terrible having never played before, but still i have questions with how it's set up ~particularly as to how the strings are positioned on the bridge. i am having a terrible time singling out the 'D' string when playing across more than one string in a piece. more often than not, my bow seems to be getting caught up on the 'A' string. which doesn't seem to be a problem for any other string.
so....
request #1 ~can someone post a pic of proper string placement on the bridge so i can compare how mine are set up?
request #2 ~assuming the strings are placed properly, does anyone have any suggestions for me to improve/what to watch for (posture-wise) to reduce the problem?
the piece i have been practicing with is "My Grandfather's Clock" in 'G major' beginning on the open 'D' string as that way it spans across 3 strings when playing in 1st position and incorporates a lot of scale work ~so great for learning fingering.
thanks! 
"you make a living by what you earn, you make a life by what you give." ~winston churchill
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https://fiddlerman.com/tutoria.....e-strings/
https://fiddlerman.com/tutoria.....s/detache/
https://fiddlerman.com/fiddle-.....ard-chart/
#1. Yours are most likely set up correctly. looking from the chinrest to the scroll from left to right are G, D, A, and E. Use a tuner to tune them and then fine tune them by ear.
#2. The closer to the fingerboard you play the more even leveled the strings are, the closer to the bridge you play the more space between the string levels there are. I recommend that you practice nice slow open string bowings on each string to get a feel for playing on each strings. You raise the elbow at the shoulder joint to change string levels with the bow. you might be just using the wrist. Think of the upper arm as the elevator that lets you go from string to string, the elbow is the pivot point for bowing up and down or in and out however you see it. the wrist allows you to bow straighter and maintain a single point of contact on the string as opposed to the "windshield" wiper motion and the fingers extend and contract as you bow to smooth out the direction changes amongst other things.
I have Brian Wicklunds books and it contains his version of grandfathers clock, pretty cool tune. Good luck, post a vid of your playing in Critique Corner for more specific advice, Play the learning games on this forum, watch the fiddlerman vids etc. All the info is here, I havent found anything Ive ever needed lacking here so.
"Please play some wrong notes, so that we know that you are human" - said to Jascha Heifetz.
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those are helpful tips, thank you! the bowing technique especially.
when i was asking about how the strings are set up, i was more thinking about where they are positioned on the bridge (spacing) because when i play especially the 'G' or 3rd finger in 1st position on the 'D' string it lowers the string (closer to the fingerboard) to the point where it becomes very difficult to hit only that note without also touching the 'A' string. the lower notes on that string as well as the open position seem fine it is just the 'G' and higher. i was thinking if it was positioned higher up on the arc of the bridge maybe it would help, but i don't want to move anything i shouldn't.
as far a posting a vid -i was thinking about it, but probably would have to break the piece into sections so as not to overwhelm anybody with my inadequacy! haha!
in layman/woman's terms, what is the easiest way to post a vid on here. ~i am very challenged in that department!
"you make a living by what you earn, you make a life by what you give." ~winston churchill
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2.5 to 3 mm for E string 4 to 4.5 mm for G string (depends on kind of string)
- this was discovered doing a web search for string heights. The G and E are the only ones I ever saw mentioned. There are standard heights but no set in stone ones. Personal preference.
The higher up on the fingerboard you play the lower that string becomes, think tightrope that sags the most in the middle. you have to adjust your point of resonance towards the bridge to avoid hitting adjacent strings.
You might want to take it to a local luthier and have them address your concerns.
"Please play some wrong notes, so that we know that you are human" - said to Jascha Heifetz.
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