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Regulars
Howdy y'all ! I've been having a problem since I started back up with the G string not sounding fully (if that makes sense?) in certain parts of the bow. Does this have to do with me not rosining the bow enough? I'm also having problems with figuring out which parts of the bow need rosin, as it seems the whole unit keeps kicking up dust. Maybe rehair the bow?
Here's a video that hopefully explains better than I am ah
Thank you in advance !

Regulars
I hear what your talking about. It's hard to say for sure, but it sounds like the bow isn't quite gripping the string, like maybe you play with those parts of the bow more and the rosin is more wore off in a couple spots than others. What I would do if I weren't sure if it were too much or too little rosin (usually I can tell by the feel, if the bow just isn't catching enough) I take an extra violin cleaning rag (I keep one just for my bow hair, haha) and wipe down the bow hair real good, then reapply.
I know what areas of my bow I use the most, so I sometimes just reapply to that area, but even when I do the whole bow I can feel the difference in how the bow catches the rosin in the wore off area, it slides more there, where everywhere else it grips the rosin more.
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World's Okayest Fiddler
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Regulars

Regulars

Hello Panda-P. Two suggestions. The first thing that I would do is to use a wine cork (or similar) and remove caked-on rosin from the strings where they engage with the bow.
If the problem is a wolf tone, I am not aware of any commercially available wolf tone arrestor available for a violin (many are available for the cello, where wolf tones are often considered a minor consideration to an otherwise excellent instrument). I think that the application of a fishing "lead split shot sinker" applied to the after length (between the bridge and the tail piece) of the offending string should greatly lessen or eliminate the problem for you. The split shot may have to be moved up or down the string to obtain the best results (it is a harmonics thing). If you don't know an angler, you may have to purchase a package of them (they are very inexpensive). A set of hand pliers are the typical implement for installing them.
Success is the progressive realisation of a worthy ideal. —Earl Nightingale.

Honorary advisor
Regulars

All great tips!!!
And I did not know about the cork technique to remove rosin residue from my strings!
I played the video and I did not hear a bow or rosin issue. It did sound more like a harmonic reverberation. And, again, I never heard of the fishing sinker solution but it does make sense. Would a practice mute test on the string in that location also confirm the issue? I might also try that. But what is causing it in the first place? That would be my question. I don’t see fishing sinkers commonly on violins, which makes me wonder what is the underlying problem.
I hope you find the answer to this. It would drive me crazy!
- Pete -

Regulars

All of God’s (and man’s) objects are created with a resonant frequency. That is why soldiers are told to break march across a bridge. I don’t think that the use of a plastic mute would be of use. Tuning down a half or quarter step might. I would also check the length of the tail gut to see if too long. Unclear if a change to a harp tail piece would be useful.
Adding a bit of mass to the string’s after length is the standard solution. The lead split shot seemed to be of the correct scale, it is easily secured without fasteners, and you certainly can’t beat the cost.
Success is the progressive realisation of a worthy ideal. —Earl Nightingale.

Regulars

Another avenue to investigate. A string moves around quite a bit when oscillated by the bow (interesting short video on Youtube demonstrates this very well). If the bridge does not provide enough clearance between the g string and the lower end of the finger board, the string will produce quite a buzz. The clearance needs to be at least 4 mm.
Reasons what may cause the lack of clearance: The bridge may be leaning forward due to tuning. The neck may have set at a different angle due to overheating in a car or change in humidity. The bridge may have been installed backwards (logo toward the finger board). The bridge may be warped or otherwise faulty.
I would also check around the rib areas for glue separation and generally tap the plates of the violin to see if anything is loose or unsecure.
Success is the progressive realisation of a worthy ideal. —Earl Nightingale.

Regulars

Hi Fiddlerman (and others). During my research on this topic, I did notice that another type of violin wolf eliminator is commercially available from the one you sell. It is a clam shell type arrangement held together with a screw. The advantage of this design is that the string does not have to be removed in order to insert the device.
Success is the progressive realisation of a worthy ideal. —Earl Nightingale.
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