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This is a Fiddlerman link demonstrating how to resurrect a fallen bridge on a violin. I am posting it in Viola because the same would be true.
It would also be good to watch for tuning, especially if installing new strings, even though you just do one string at a time, and the bridge is still standing upright, as far as turning the pegs, and reminder about fine tuners.
Resurrect a Fallen Bridge, Fiddlerman Video
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This is very interesting, as my violin came with the bridge lined up with the outer notches, and there are various threads on violinist.com about afterlength tuning and whether it matters or not. My G string's afterlength is C#, and some insist it should be D. But if I move my bridge to align with the inner notches, my G string's afterlength becomes D. I'll have to give it a careful listen when I practise this weekend. I restrung yesterday, but amazingly the strings seem to have settled already.
Andrew
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Never thought about it pertaining to bridge placement before - jeez, you made me look it up. 🤨
String After Length - Violinist.com (okay, interesting discussion on this & cool idea for an adjustable tailpiece).
I have always salivated a bit seeing slanted-edge tailpieces. Fiddlershop carries the 'Supreme Harp' in various woods.
I've got my bridge lined up with the inner marks, even though I was under the assumption longer string vibrating length might be better (and thought that meant from nut to bridge). My G string after length is only 53mm, but G is not my lowest string - still don't think my F string is even quite 54. The back length of my 6-string Violin is only 350 (didn't check measurements on my 5-string Viola).
Not messing with it on my fiddle anyway, because my tailpiece has an electonic control attached and everything still resonates nicely, even though it will be even better when I change my strings (past due).
Not sure it's worth thinking about for my Viola, either - don't think I need to, but I could change that tailpiece... wouldn't mind going without fine tuners.
...guess I'll worry about it in my next life, when I become a professional violinist, with an expensive antique violin.
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Longer resonant length means slightly higher tension.
Andrew
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@Gordon Shumway -
Thanks for pointing that out!
Did you decide to move your bridge?
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ELCBK said
@Gordon Shumway -Did you decide to move your bridge?
Yes.
Andrew
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Gordon Shumway said
This is very interesting, as my violin came with the bridge lined up with the outer notches, and there are various threads on violinist.com about afterlength tuning and whether it matters or not. My G string's afterlength is C#, and some insist it should be D. But if I move my bridge to align with the inner notches, my G string's afterlength becomes D. I'll have to give it a careful listen when I practise this weekend. I restrung yesterday, but amazingly the strings seem to have settled already.
From my experience there is very little difference, but I find that having more after-length gives perhaps a slightly warmer sound.
I think that people make perhaps a bigger deal of this than what it's worth, but the violin maker generally marks where they want the bridge feet centered with the f hole notches.
You can easily just slide the bridge back if you loosen the strings slightly (I do it without loosening the strings) and hold the bridge very firmly, sliding it back while making sure that the top of the bridge is straight and the feet flat.
When I'm very serious about an instrument, either for myself, or for a customer, I sometimes experiment with this. However, the biggest difference is where the bridge is in comparison to the soundpost. This is definitely affected by moving the bridge but can be adjusted by moving the post as well. So whatever is done on the outside may need to be adjusted on the inside. Not necessarily though. 
"The richest person is not the one who has the most,
but the one who needs the least."
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