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Hi everyone I know there's likely already been a post similar to this but I searched the other night and found nothing.
I recently purchased a new instrument (and when I say that I mean 3 months ago) being I'm patient guess what I've not even raised the bridge yet more over I really want to do this right because looking back on some of my old post from the past and a past profile from 6 years ago I've come to realize I knew nothing about anything violin.
This recent purchase is pretty much just a project for the time being thus the reason I've not even played it yet I already have one that is set up and playable so no need to get in a rush.
Now here's my dilemma I've come across conflicting information about the proper placement of the bridge,the first violin I ever owned came with the bridge standing the feet were placed with the face just set at the notches so I left the bridge where it was.
Yet the majority of the information I've found tells me to get my calipers out and find the center of the feet of the bridge pencil in a mark on both sides and set the notches in the F holes in the center of the feet of the bridge,to me at least this seems as if if it would produce a more balanced tone in relation to where the sound post is set.
Am I correct or wrong?
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I guess the to be clear here I'll add another picture,the picture in the OP is the new toy I got for $108.00 brand new with case and sort of a bow
This is what I'm asking about is this a proper placement for the bridge?
Regulars
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Hi Tim...
That looks about right BUT !!! ...
... before you set the bridge up and tighten the strings, make sure your sound post is still standing (which it likely will not be.) Don't but the strings under tension with the bridge ... even in the correct spot ... without the sound post in place.
If by wild chance the sound post is standing, place the bridge so that the surface with the logo or brand name is facing the tailpiece.
Think of "lubricating" the notches of the bridge and nut with a graphite pencil before finally tightening the strings.
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Thanks for the input Bocaholly.
The SP is good and standing I was trying to figure out where I wanted to actually place the bridge before I get to this thing and playing I've still got to replace the strings as I do not like steel strings as well as synthetics.
For those who real this I made a type-o this one cost me $118.00 still not bad in my opinion.
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The real deal is that you should measure the entire distance from the inside edge of the nut to the edge of the bridge and it should be as close to 330mm as possible. Sometimes makers, workshops, factories make mistakes on the f-hole notches.
"The richest person is not the one who has the most,
but the one who needs the least."
Regulars
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Since no one else is silly enough to contradict you, Pierre, here I go:
I thought standard vibrating string length was 325 (says she who spent so much time trying to shorten her VSL to accomodate her small-ish hands 
Regulars
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Maybe this is different for different scale violins? I don't know.
I measured mine and it was 270mm from the edge of the nut to the end of my fingerboard. I measured from the edge of the fingerboard to the edge of my bridge and I had 55mm which adds up to 325. I had my bridge in between the F hole notches on my violin.
I moved the bridge out to 350mm. This put my bridge at the edge of the lower F hole.
I think it sounds better!! Not sure how much of a difference this makes but I put on a harp tail piece awhile back so that might be changing the characteristics of my string lengths. Additionally, I don't think the luthier had my dimensions exactly right in the beginning according to another luthier I spoke with.
Thanks Fiddlerman for this info!! Not sure if my case applies to all.
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There is a 5 mm difference in quote unquote standard string length for a full sized violin depending who you talk to and who does the math for the 1/6 ratio. Going from 325mm to 330mm
Mark
Master the Frog and you have mastered the bow.
Albert Sammons
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bocaholly said
Since no one else is silly enough to contradict you, Pierre, here I go:
But you are. ROFL
I thought standard vibrating string length was 325 (says she who spent so much time trying to shorten her VSL to accomodate her small-ish hands
It isn't all that important. For example you have a slightly smaller violin and your adjustment is slightly less which doesn't affect the sound very much if anything.
I've heard 327 to 330 but that is just what I've heard. As mark wrote, we are talking about 5 mm's between the two numbers.
Felix shoots for 330 and it seems as though a longer string length, as well as the longest after-length possible, is positive for resonance.
My main point is that f-hole notches are not always made in the right spot.
"The richest person is not the one who has the most,
but the one who needs the least."
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