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Out of interest - did it break somewhere "within the peg-box and peg itself" OR right at the nut ? ( small possibility that the groove and groove-contour on the nut is too tight / sharp and effectively 'pinched' the string at that point? Dunno, just thoughts... )
I seriously recommend not copying my mistakes. D'oh -
Please make your own, different mistakes, and help us all learn :-)

Member

Fiddlerman said
Let me know if your strings break too early or without a good explanation. I like to give top support on our strings and will send free replacements. Just contact support@fiddlershop.com for your free replacements.
Now that's excellent customer service!

Funny this topic showed up. I got home from work on Friday, picked up the fiddle, began to play and noticed something strange. There was no "A" string, it had broken at the tailpiece. Oddly enough it was a Fiddlerman set.
There's no need to request a replacement for it though, I have enough spare strings to outfit 10 violins, lol.
Strings will break occasionally, they're only human too.
Ken.


Oh - just an additional point on breaking strings - especially for newcomers making their first string change - it is generally recommended to take care and pay attention to the string as it winds on the peg - try not to let the winding overlap as you tighten it up - I won't go into the reasons - there are several - just "keep the winding neat, tight, and tidy".... LOL - the strings should be made to wind/spiral inwards towards whichever edge of the peg-box the peg you are adjusting/tightening itself is on - so G and D should be a tight wound spiral toward the G and D side of the peg-box and the A and E, similarly, a tight clean spiral towards the A and E side of the box. Avoid having unsightly, overlapped strings on the pegs, and don't push too much of the string through the peg-hole to start with - you only need a few mm for it to catch well-enough - if it's too long and waving about in the peg box it could make unintended buzzing-noises as it vibrates against the box while playing.....
Oh and again for newcomers - do make sure you tension the strings in the correct direction.... (with the string leaving the top of the peg as you view it, on its path to the nut and not from the underside of the peg) - looking towards the G and D pegs they would e turned anti-clockwise to tension the strings, and looking towards the A and E pegs - they would be turned clockwise to tension the strings.... ( I've seen a fiddle set up entirely the other-way around... that was really strange when I came to tune it in...)
And more for beginners - watch what you are using as your tuning reference - there are some tuners around ( actual tuners, like the Snark and other things like apps on a smartphone or PC ) - some of them just give a "note" indication - but NOT the octave - again - I've seen folks tune an octave too low - and indeed too high (usually with snapped strings ) - so be aware ! If your tuner is good enough you'll either get octave indications, or even actual frequencies - the G is G3, which is 196Hz - it is NOT G2 ( 98Hz ) and definitely not G4 ( 394Hz - well - your string would break before you got there )
LOL - small, minor points that sometimes won't matter too much - but it's all in the detail - just for the starters tuning-up - take care !"!
[ Haaaa - Bill wonders if he got the clockwise and anti-clockwise references correct - I have trouble identifying left from right at the best of times.... - I'm sure it's OK !]
I seriously recommend not copying my mistakes. D'oh -
Please make your own, different mistakes, and help us all learn :-)
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