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Honorary advisor

Honorary advisor
Classical players tend to use "gut" strings (various composite materials wrapped in various metals) while "fiddlers" tend to prefer steel strings that have a solid metal core. Steel strings are more difficult to get perfectly in tune with just the pegs, while "gut" strings can be tuned with just the pegs pretty easily. Classical players generally use a steel E string, hence the fine tuner on only that string.
Mary in Springfield, Oregon http://www.thefiddleandbanjopr.....dpress.com

Honorary tenured advisor

my daughter's teacher has only one fine tuner on her E string. She said, and i read some where, that smaller violins (e.g., 1/32, 1/8, 1/4, etc) are harder to tune so the fine tuner would help tuning the string to the right note, whereas the bigger violins are easier to tune. i didn't ask for the reason, but my guess is it has to do with the pegs, the strings length, steel strings, etc. Most smaller size violins have steel strings.
Here, I found it:
Violins are tuned by turning the pegs in the pegbox under the scroll, or by adjusting the fine tuner screws at the tailpiece. All violins have pegs; fine tuners (also called fine adjusters) are optional. Most fine tuners consist of a metal screw that moves a lever attached to the string end. They permit very small pitch adjustments much more easily than the pegs. By turning one clockwise, the pitch becomes sharper and turning one counterclockwise, the pitch becomes flatter.
Fine tuners on all four of the strings are a practical necessity for playing steel-core strings, and some players use them with synthetic strings as well. Since modern E strings are steel, a fine tuner is typically fitted for that string. Fine tuners are not used with gut strings, which are more elastic than steel or synthetic-core strings and do not respond adequately to the very small movements of fine tuners.
(source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/V.....lin#Tuning)
The fiddlerman has two fine tuner -- one on his E string and one on his A string, you could see them on his video on how to change string.

Well, that's a comprehensive answer .... but two ? Never heard of that.
I'm surprised that sound quality differences have not been raised as an issue?
Also, Fiddlerman says in the video that he changes strings every 6 weeks. If he plays 10 hours a week average that would be 60 hours usage. Let's call it 8 new sets of strings per year! I probably average 6 mos. on a set of strings but the difference is hardly noticeable compared to other things.

Honorary advisor
Oliver said:
I'm surprised that sound quality differences have not been raised as an issue?
Also, Fiddlerman says in the video that he changes strings every 6 weeks. If he plays 10 hours a week average that would be 60 hours usage. Let's call it 8 new sets of strings per year! I probably average 6 mos. on a set of strings but the difference is hardly noticeable compared to other things.
Sound quality differences? Are you talking about the endless debate about afterlength when using fine tuners? Various tailpiece (with and without tuners) materials and their effect on sound? It's a wide and deep subject among luthiers and wannabees
I'm pretty sure Fiddlerman plays much more than 10 hours a week if he needs to change strings that often. I have a guitar-playing friend who changes strings after one use sometimes, but he says it's because his sweat is particularly acidic and the strings corrode - perhaps that is an issue for some, although I can't figure out how to work up a sweat while fiddling...
Mary in Springfield, Oregon http://www.thefiddleandbanjopr.....dpress.com

Yeah, endless debate. I would love to actually hear some before/after comparisons !
Anyhow, it is all academic to me because of 3 violins, I only have one of sufficient quality to use the pegs for tuning. The other 2 are frozen solid until Thanksgiving.
I wonder however if I am the only one using midget tuners ?
I would guess Fiddlerman has the tuners on steel "A" and "E". Perlon on others ?

Honorary advisor
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