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How much pressure should you be using to keep the violin stable? And where should your chin height be once the chin rest and shoulder rest are in place? I'm having a tough time wanting to have my left hand support the violin and of course that isn't helping me play. So, looking at this post I should play around with the height of what I currently have and maybe look for a different style if I can't get that to work. I think I have the Guarneri chin rest (came with the violin - Gliga) and a Muco shoulder rest.

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Heinrich said
How much pressure should you be using to keep the violin stable?
Very little at all. You should only need a gentle nod of the head, and feel comfortable walking around holding the violin with just your jaw resting on it, without feeling like you need to clench down to keep it from falling.
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Fiddlerman said
we sent out a box of like 6 chinrests to customers to have them test
Every now and then I look at an accessory and see the warning that it's not for home fitting, it should be done by a luthier, e.g. bridges and tailpieces. I thought chinrests were the same, but I guess not - you just need to understand how to tighten up those double-ended screws. But I'd fear screwing them up too tight and damaging either the fiddle or the chin-rest (that I didn't own yet). Somewhere there must be instructions on how to do that properly.
I've got a $50 fiddle outfit and a $100 fiddle outfit that a friend gave me cos her daughter wasn't interested in learning. Do you recommend stripping such cheap fiddles and reassembling them for the experience and practice, or is it something that can easily lead to disaster without much being learnt on the way?
How much work is there in carving a bridge?
I've got a nice Tellier bridge with an ebony insert for the E string - I bought it a year ago because I noticed they were becoming rare (rare on Amazon at least), but I think maybe I was being too ambitious - I didn't realise the feet would need shaping, and my woodwork skills are very poor.
(sorry, I've lumped a lot of questions into one piece of thread drift!)
Andrew
Verified human - the ignominy!

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Hi Andrew and others. Let’s start with the chin rest. The main problem I see with people changing chin rests is that they use something too long to engage with post barrel so that it protrudes from the back of the hole and damages the rib varnish behind the post. Often, the original chin rest was applied too soon to allow the original varnish is set and some of the cork remains engaged to the top or bottom plates. I have no concern of this because I play cheap violins. And make sure of clearance between the chin rest and the tailpiece to avoid buzzing.
The You Tube videos provided by Fiddlerman and Rosa String Works (among others) are excellent in explaining the process of making the necessary measurements to get the proper string height of a bridge and how to shape the bridge feet. I found that it was much easier to use an inexpensive belt sander to reduce the depth of a bridge than to attack it with chisels (search for “belly” to find the thread where I discuss how to do it). I would start with inexpensive Chinese bridges (I found that the Cinderella brand on eBay are very good) and fashion two at a time so that you use the best and keep the spare in the case for emergencies. I would put a drop of superglue on the ebony insert of the Teller since it may come off during chisel/sanding otherwise.
You may want to look at my thread on roasting bridges since it is easily done and adds a good deal to the performance of the bridge.
I would advise learning how to make changes on you own instruments if they are not heirlooms. I would wait a few days on working on the bridge since I am about to do an experiment for bocaholly on the use of a bungee cord clamp to retain the sound post. I should have results by the end of the week.
Success is the progressive realisation of a worthy ideal. —Earl Nightingale.

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@Fiddlerman and @Irv
Looks like one of my first DIY jobs will be to lower the nut action on my $50 fiddle (and the EV too). It wasn't so bad doing the Ab,Eb,Bb,F, but comparing it with a Stentor with absolutely perfect nut action, I realise that there is also the same intonation problem you get with a cheap uke with a high nut, only on the violin, because it's fretless, you don't notice it unless you switch to a better instrument. Luckily my muscle memory isn't very well honed at the moment, so it was good that I made the change quickly.
Also (since the thread is about chinrests), I'm pleased to find that the Stentor's (which I haven't quite identified, but it isn't a guarneri - might be a Teka), is very comfortable.
Andrew
Verified human - the ignominy!

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Fiddlerman said
Our luthiers fill gaps and grooves from time to time by mixing superglue with Ebony dust.
Guitarists use superglue and baking soda, I understand. I don't have any ebony dust available, but luckily a $50 fiddle's cosmetics don't matter too much.
Andrew
Verified human - the ignominy!

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I agree with bocaholly (as I always do). The knotch in the bridge under the e string started its life as an ebony insert to protect the bridge from splitting via pressure from the thin string.
If your chin is consistently over the tail piece as depicted in the photo, you should consider a flesch or similar chin rest.
Success is the progressive realisation of a worthy ideal. —Earl Nightingale.

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Item I was thinking about appears to be a mis-marked Dresden chin rest. Just received by mail a 1/2 sized flesch chin rest with about 3/16” material above hole for tail piece (Johnson String item chvnfflebst_3). Certainly could be used on a 4/4 violin for someone with a small neck.
Success is the progressive realisation of a worthy ideal. —Earl Nightingale.
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