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That is beyond DIY, Steve, "harvesting" your own MOP. If you keep this trend going, you'll soon be planting maple and spruce seedlings on your window sill 
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bocaholly said
That is beyond DIY, Steve, "harvesting" your own MOP. If you keep this trend going, you'll soon be planting maple and spruce seedlings on your window sill
Lol,
the biggest reason was I was too impatient to wait for something in the mail...
also kind of cool when I look at it and consider where the shell came from.
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@steveduf Awesome thread.
Questions????
How deep is the back carved for the inlay?
Does the bridge height match the wedge?
Did you put glue on the front side of the crack?
The glue part is from watching a chinese luthier repair a crack. Says it seals the wood from the front and prevents a crack in the future for the patch. And I ask about the depth of the engravement because I wonder if the backs are made thicker to accommodate the missing wood and prevent cracks in the back. I wonder if removing wood from the back changes the sound or tonal qualities.
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Shane "Chicken" Wang said
@steveduf Awesome thread.Questions????
How deep is the back carved for the inlay?
Does the bridge height match the wedge?
Did you put glue on the front side of the crack?
The glue part is from watching a chinese luthier repair a crack. Says it seals the wood from the front and prevents a crack in the future for the patch. And I ask about the depth of the engravement because I wonder if the backs are made thicker to accommodate the missing wood and prevent cracks in the back. I wonder if removing wood from the back changes the sound or tonal qualities.
Shane
the inlay is micro- thin, under a 1/16 th. The bottom basically seems normal for thickness. I wish I could mic it.
there was no bridge and the neck was broke. I just stripped it down and once the neck is reinstalled I will decide if the finger board needs wedged.
The glue was washed off the face and allowed to dry so it did show some minute recessing. Will figure on that later, couple of options.
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Lots of work but a great challenge, it’s really nice to follow your improvements!
Life isn’t about waiting for the storm to pass. It’s about dancing in the rain!!
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Great work steveduf. I love it. Great ambition as well but I guess you've been at it for a while.
"The richest person is not the one who has the most,
but the one who needs the least."
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I just caught up a little here. I am blown away. OMG. Awesome.... MOST EXCELLENT.
I am an NO-DIY ALLOWED person. That is amazing.
Cheers. Toni
Vibrato Desperato.... Desperately seeking vibrato
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steveduf said
Shane
the inlay is micro- thin, under a 1/16 th. The bottom basically seems normal for thickness. I wish I could mic it.
there was no bridge and the neck was broke. I just stripped it down and once the neck is reinstalled I will decide if the finger board needs wedged.
The glue was washed off the face and allowed to dry so it did show some minute recessing. Will figure on that later, couple of options.
Appreciate the info. That's a big help for my future projects.
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Cleats are finished in the top, not sure if I should’ve used a couple more.
Getting closer to having to determine how to trim it out.
i like the idea of keeping the original look, but I’m not sure if I want to keep and resurface the old fingerboard, or cut a new ebony one. I have always liked the classic ebony look but I also have a rosewood and basswood fittings set on hand. Always open for an opinion. 
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Looking very official, those last repairs, Steve
Never short of an (unqualified) opinion, I vote for ebony fittings. It seems that all the online pics of violins with this kind of inlay go that route... and you are, indeed, performing an historical resurrection 
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@bocaholly previously mentioned a crack caused by a sound post, and I just saw a photo of such a defect, so I thought that I should post it (see below in all of its glory).
I have been reading about spline joints in violin bow heads. Typical trade price for the repair is $270. I also found that a repaired stick has a value of only 30% of that of an undamaged bow. 
Success is the progressive realisation of a worthy ideal. —Earl Nightingale.
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Irv said
@bocaholly previously mentioned a crack caused by a sound post, and I just saw a photo of such a defect, so I thought that I should post it (see below in all of its glory).I have been reading about spline joints in violin bow heads. Typical trade price for the repair is $270. I also found that a repaired stick has a value of only 30% of that of an undamaged bow.
I’ve read that a sound post crack can be a tough one and that it takes a pretty good sized blow- out patch.
I’ve watched a couple videos on splining a bow, wow, 270.00 seems a little crazy but probably includes a rehair. This bow actually isn’t worth it but I wanted the experience.
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It looks like someone went at the back of that violin with a BB gun! I've unfortunately seen rear plate sound post cracks (previously reported on in another thread) but it didn't leave a hole, just a nice long, hardly visible crack.. (I'm assuming the "BB gun hole" is the spot where the sound post broke all the way through the plate?)
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Hi @bocaholly. The noted pinhole is likely a photographic artifact. To use a projectile analogy, an actual sound post poke through is more like a 9mm.
Success is the progressive realisation of a worthy ideal. —Earl Nightingale.
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Here’s another DIY on a bow gone wrong... lol
not 
saving this one
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Repaired 3 spots on the edges. Those old rigid cases are not very forgiving on them. Have the top glued, need to clean up edges of its glue. Need to fix a few more small things and glue the neck back on. Then I’ll let Mackenzie finish the top before I do the fingerboard and trim. Getting closer to hearing her speak.
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@steveduf don’t throw that bow out yet. I have a plan that might work.
Success is the progressive realisation of a worthy ideal. —Earl Nightingale.
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