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Currently working on getting badges to show up horizontally. Should hopefully figure that out within a week. Thanks for your patience.










picked up another mosaic project. Very nice looking border but is missing probably 5-6 inches of border. Needs fingerboard and trim. Neck is separated. To make the trim by hand would be countless hours. Still waiting on my new fingerboard to finish the last mosaic project.
@bocaholly , did you ever get your mosaic up and running?
this one is going on hold for awhile



Hi @steveduf and others. What you are looking for is rope guitar binding. Make sure you add guitar or you will be taken to odd corners of the Internet best left unexplored. I would remove existing since getting a perfect match is beyond luck. Gurian Instruments has a very attractive koa/maple/rosewood rope binding for $45/bundle.
Procedure to make your own binding are in American Luthier #45 and #100. Also in “Classical Guitar Making” by Bogdanovich.
Success is the progressive realisation of a worthy ideal. —Earl Nightingale.



Easy for you. I am searching the medicine cabinet for boric acid to rinse out my eyes. You are on your own as to the Luthier magazine articles.
Take care in putting that stuff on a violin because all that glue will make it delicate.
Success is the progressive realisation of a worthy ideal. —Earl Nightingale.








@bocaholly , did you ever get your mosaic up and running?
I did (or I should say, Felix at Fiddlershop did) and I owe you a report. Lovely job... and resulted in an interesting sound. I already mentioned that I installed the Knilling pegs myself. Felix did a top notch job on a new fingerboard, nut, bridge, sound post and selected a petit harp tailpiece which works nicely. Someone, at some point, had done a bogus repair job with epoxy on the ribs right around the saddle. Felix was able to make that mess nearly disappear.
The body is full sized, the neck seems to be the size of a 3/4 so in the end, I'm dealing with a 7/8 sized violin string length on a nice, svelt neck. Very player friendly with an action just high enough to keep the G string from buzzing.
I promise a comparative recording against my main Sima some time in the not too distant future



Well @bocaholly, everyone knows that engineers are kids that never grew up. I bought loads of Radio Shack T Shirts when the company finally went out of business for $2 each. I have a bi daily alternation with a Simpson “I dress myself” shirt so people will not reach the conclusion that I have worn the same shirt for five years running.
Success is the progressive realisation of a worthy ideal. —Earl Nightingale.









steveduf said
And to the binding joke, loldozen years or so ago I made an end table from wood reclaimed from a beavers feed pile. I wanted to etch a scene on a piece of glass for the top. I searched “beaver pictures” ... I clicked on the first one tagged exotic pictures of beavers...
S.A.Y. N.O. M.O.R.E.
Immediatley heard Lieslie Nielsen in Naked Gun movie.



Hi @steveduf and others. I have spent some time looking at videos. If you have access to a table saw and perhaps a band saw, I think it possible to make your own binding. I would get a thin kerf 8 inch diameter skill saw blade to waste the smallest amount of wood possible.
Select boards of species reflective of existing rope element colors (assume maple or birch for light and cherry or walnut for dark). Rip to match height of existing binding. Plane or sand top and bottom surfaces to finish dimension. Dye to match existing binding.
Tilt table saw blade 45 degrees (or to match existing binding) and use veneer jig (easy to make) to produce rhombus ended sticks of about 4 inches in length. Glue up alternating sticks (avoid gluing end surfaces) starting with a dark stick and ending with a light stick and compress between wax paper. Cut to required width on table saw or band saw. Extend length if necessary using glue.
Success is the progressive realisation of a worthy ideal. —Earl Nightingale.



@Irv
i have every kind of saw and planers and sanders, they are just too big for the minute pieces, also I did a preliminary cleaning and noticed there were two small layers of veneer against the top also. I think I will cut all the small pieces with the small cross cut in a home made miter box and install it meticulously.



The binding is likely 3/16" to 1/4" high. It should be easy to achieve that dimension on a table saw. You will need a zero clearance table insert for saw table (I make mine out of cedar) so that the tooth pick sized rope segments will not be lost. Do not think of tiny segments. Think of alternating wood colored rhombus blocks cut into binding strips after glue up. Commercial operations use standard sized equipment so you should be able to duplicate their efforts.
Success is the progressive realisation of a worthy ideal. —Earl Nightingale.



You might want to look at Harbor Freight item #61608. Provided 4 inch saw blade is useless, but a suitable carbide tipped blade is inexpensive. Once veneer is created, slicing “tooth picks” can also be accomplished with a fret saw if angle can be established with a guide block. You might also look at making a planing guide similar to that used in making split bamboo fly rods. We can do this without you going blind in the process.
Success is the progressive realisation of a worthy ideal. —Earl Nightingale.
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