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thanks. i will read those. any knowledge is good. Honestly i'm just wanting to see what i can do without all of this extra insight. i have actually stopped reading things on how to build a violin. i actually purposfully have not bought the art af violin making just to not sku it's input on this project.
if it sounds bad. and i'm sure it might. it will hang on the wall as my first one. if it sound fine, i will play it. i'm not too concerned. i know i am not using the correct woods. that was on purpose. if nothing else, for the ability to have something other than my skills as the reason.... That's why i'm trying other things as well, like hollowing out the bass bar, drilling the bridge and other stuff that might not happen until it is completed.
This is just for fun and i thought you guys would enjoy seeing it.
Now, after that one, i am going to study the art of violin making as well as read what you sent. At that point, i would actually try to make something nice.
i do so love the comments though, it gives me something to think about for the future. thanks

Pro advisor
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I'm not much of a technical guy... I spend too much time jamming and writing songs. I sure do appreciate people like you that can do that stuff as that helps in the sounds of instruments and recordings.
Don't forget though, a way a musician plays makes a new sound too when they get into what they are doing.

Regular advisor
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Quick update:
I have (had) a cheap 25$ fiddle. I took the back and top off of it. I plan on using the ribs from that.
One problem is that it was put together with normal wood glue. It is not easy to get apart. I still have to get the neck and fingerboard off.
The whole thing was put together cheaply. The bass bar is real thin and not in constant contact with the top. The soundpost was put in so tightly that it put some nice indentions in the wood. The fingerboard seems to be a painted maple.
Oh well, this is just a fun project.

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Ok, here we go. here it is before finishing.
I have a couple things to mention. Using the tools I did made this an extrordinarily difficult task. This ended up being a VSO instead of a violin. The groves in the nut are not exact and need adjusted.
I made the arch in the top too tall and had do cut down the bridge a lot. When doing so, I didn't get it even. That has to be fixed.
I still have to get a soundpost installed. That should help the sound some. But, I am somewhat impressed that I get any resonance at all. It does sound better than the $25 violin I started with.
All in all, I am happy. I have about $30 in it so far. For a wall hanger and conversation piece, it will due.

Honorary tenured advisor
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thanks. This was more of a learning process. I'm really wanting to work from a kit next. I am going to use this one to try the finishing process. There is a video on youtube of Renaldo Alvez. I love that finish.
I still have a lot to do to make this look nice, but I'm intent on finishing it with my garage tools so we'll see.
Oh, yea. I'm also going to try out some sort of finishes you can get at Lowes. I'm not sure how it will work out. But

Honorary advisor
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Honorary advisor
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eoj02 said
Oh, yea. I'm also going to try out some sort of finishes you can get at Lowes. I'm not sure how it will work out. But
Do you have access to Humbolt Deck Oil? We use it on our boats and it makes a really nice shiny finish after about four coats or so, real thin, too. I've been dying to try it over a ground coat to see what it does for the sound...It isn't hard like a varnish and has to be renewed each year on the boats, but it's dead easy to apply and if you used clear varnish (the real stuff, not poly, please!) over the top it might just be a great fit with your oak fiddle and not wear like it does on the boats.
Just, ya know, if we're doin' group experimenting...
Mary in Springfield, Oregon http://www.thefiddleandbanjopr.....dpress.com


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Well Cat, I was hoping to hear from you. That is what I'll look for. After all, you're the one that inspired this in the first place. I've got to figure something for color though.
Anyway, the plastic pegs from the cheapo are slipping like mad. I also think I need to make a completely new bridge. Due to the arch of the top, there is not enough material to get solid contact to the top.
I also have to make something to get the soundpost in. We'll see.

Honorary advisor
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eoj02 said
Well Cat, I was hoping to hear from you. That is what I'll look for. After all, you're the one that inspired this in the first place. I've got to figure something for color though.
Anyway, the plastic pegs from the cheapo are slipping like mad. I also think I need to make a completely new bridge. Due to the arch of the top, there is not enough material to get solid contact to the top.
I also have to make something to get the soundpost in. We'll see.
Ebony pegs are only about $4.00 US, so they would be a good investment.
Have you considered a viola bridge? Might have enough "meat" there to make it work...
The Humboldt deck oil comes in several colors. We use "walnut," which is a nice, dark brown - might look great with the oak. I would suggest a good ground coat first so that the oil doesn't soak into the wood which might negatively affect the sound. I use a sugar seal followed by several coats of shellac - cheap, easy to apply and not too toxic. Info on my fiddle build threads or blog...
Mary in Springfield, Oregon http://www.thefiddleandbanjopr.....dpress.com

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Honorary advisor
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eoj02 said
I like that, "Not too toxic."I've read that blog a few times. I might try it. I'm having some trouble translating exactly how to do that ground coat. All i've ever done was stain, then poly on any furniture i've worked on.
Sugar seal is easy - 1/2 cup water, 1/3 cup sugar (brown or white - edible if you're so inclined) heated in microwave or on the stove top until the sugar is totally dissolved. Let cool and brush on (a foam brush works great - rinse with water between coats.) Let dry completely. Repeat as desired until all surfaces are evenly coated and it looks a bit shiny.
Dilute de-waxed shellac 2:5 with denatured alcohol (not recommended for eating) and apply the same way, several very thin coats, letting it dry completely between coats. A regular 1" wide brush cleaned with the alcohol between coats or sealed in a plastic baggie if it's warm enough where you are to apply several coats in a day or two works best. You will be able to see when the shellac is applied evenly by turning the fiddle this way and that in sunlight. It will be obvious.
A very light sanding with 600 grit sandpaper (available at car parts stores) and you're ready for oil.
Easy-peasy. Almost takes longer to type up than it does to apply.
Mary in Springfield, Oregon http://www.thefiddleandbanjopr.....dpress.com

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I have a method I tried once after finding a sound post with string tied to it and I was drinking an iced tea with a straw. First you need one of the straws that bends and a piece of string about 3 times the length of the straw. Double the string up and put it through the straw, so there is a loop at one end, the end nearest the bend. Place the soundpost through the loop and pull the string taught, holding the soundpost. Now bend the straw and you can insert the soundpost. I should have mentioned to cut the straw so it will install the sound post where you want it and you can cut a small a V in the end to hols the soundpost better. Good luck and keep up the great work.
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