Welcome to our forum. A Message To Our New and Prospective Members . Check out our Forum Rules. Lets keep this forum an enjoyable place to visit.
Check out our 2023 Group Christmas Project HERE
Log In
Register
Home
Topic RSS
(1 votes) 
Members
Offline
@Ty: Interesting thoughts, considering this is an acoustic and the mic/preamp and soundcard are unchanged between the recordings.
No, I didn't do a one string at a time sort of thing. I try to avoid taking strings off and putting them back on as much as I can. I feel it is bad for the strings. Unavoidable to have to do a certain amount of that when fine tuning the afterlength, but once that is right it should be the same for same gauge and brand/style of strings. So it is a necessary risk and problems caused can be remedied with buying another set of the same strings.
"This young wine may have a lot of tannins now, but in 5 or 10 years it is going to be spectacular, despite the fact that right now it tastes like crude oil. You know this is how it is supposed to taste at this stage of development." ~ Itzhak Perlman
Regulars
Offline
I'm very interested in this post, as I've seen some different things floating around. I'm curious about the proper distance between the bridge and the tailpiece. I'm asking because I noticed that my tailpiece is about 3/4" away from the edge of my violin. That is, it is not flush, or even nearly, with the side panel the end pin is running through. I've seen some places where someone said there tailpiece should be pretty much adjacent to the edge of the violin top. Anyone have any info on the proper placement of the tailpiece? And how to adjust a tailpiece?
There is no failure, only results.
Members
Offline
You adjust the tailpiece for the afterlength by adjusting the length of the tailgut, which is the bit of cord or etc that goes around the endpin. Nylon tailguts seem to be the most common, and those have little threaded collars you can turn to adjust the length.
I adjust mine so that the note I get when I bow the afterlength of the D string (the section of the string that is between the bridge and the tailpiece) is an A that is two octaves higher than the open A string. I won't try to kid you, that takes a fair amount of fussing to get exactly right. So that is actually tuning the afterlength.
Other people feel that isn't worth the bother and prefer to just adjust the bridge so the afterlength is some set distance, like 55 mm or whatever. There seems to be some difference of opinion on what it should be, and different people will likely quote different authorities they happen to trust.
I personally feel that the tuning is worth the considerable bit of bother, just based on what I feel I hear and feel from the instrument after it is done. Others don't, and some consider it a silly practice or any possible benefit to be inconsequential. I spend my time as I see fit. LOL Your mileage may vary. "You pays your money and you takes your chances", y'know?
"This young wine may have a lot of tannins now, but in 5 or 10 years it is going to be spectacular, despite the fact that right now it tastes like crude oil. You know this is how it is supposed to taste at this stage of development." ~ Itzhak Perlman
1 Guest(s)
Mouse
tonyluo
ELCBK
