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ELCBK said
If it's not specifically an archival quality adhesive, you might consider some good adhesive used in garment/craft making that is reposition-able (cause you want to be able to take the chamois off to wash & not damage the wood).
Aleene's Tack-It Over & Over - thick liquid that won't harm the wood, but will hold the chamois.
Yes, I'm familiar with the spray-can repositional adhesives from student-newspaper publishing, but spray might harm the violin, and also the Scotch stuff is three times the price of the European stuff which Amazon won't deliver to the UK. I'll check out Aleene to see if it's available here. AI tells me its pH value is 4.5, which is probably less harmful to wood than something caustic.
Andrew
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The link I gave you is for a thick liquid, but a much less messy alternative is a thick, removable Acrylic Gel Tape adhesive, like THIS from Wotec.

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ELCBK said
The link I gave you is for a thick liquid, but a much less messy alternative is a thick, removable Acrylic Gel Tape adhesive, like THIS from Wotec.
Thanks. This seems to be the UK equivalent. I've just ordered a reel.
Andrew
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Well that was annoying. I was given Karajan's complete 1982-5 Beethoven symphonies 20 years ago, but I hadn't tried listening to them until today, and the foam separating each CD has perished, coating the discs. It's probably better to buy a new set than find out how to clean them and then clean them all.
Andrew
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Initial results: - Chamois and Pritt stick are the winners.
Felt quickly got wet enough to dissolve the pritt stick glue. Wool feels dry even when it's quite wet. That's its advantage, but we do need dryness.
Chamois is more comfortable to the cheek and chin and so far it has stayed dry enough for the Pritt stick glue to hold, but the heatwave has abated.
Sellotape glue is usually highly water-soluble, so I haven't bothered trying it yet .
Andrew
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My teacher's chinrest is very nice. It seems to be a kind of Berber, also centre-mounted, but subtly different with a convex curve away from the cheek instead of a concave one and with rounded-off downwards sloping ends and edges rather than sharper upwards-directed ones. I guess it's Italian, as it came supplied with her Italian loan violin. Anyone familiar with the variants?
I've discovered that mentoniera is Italian for chinrest. Some of them look softer and smoother than the Gewa offerings, but I'm not there yet. There's a maker's mark on my teacher's. I'll have a look tomorrow. Wouldn't surprise me if it was Gewa, lol!
There are, for example, Priska and Wendling models that I'd never heard of, but I can't post links, as they are commercial.
Total nonsense, all the above - it's not even centre-mounted. I now think it's a Kaufmann.
Andrew
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Back to shoulder rests. Simon Fischer mentions that the ideal is to go without, and lots do, including Yehudi Menuhin and Pierre, indeed had to before they were invented in the late 19th century. For me it's about comfort, not technique - I have a low pain threshold, and that wood pressing my collarbone is quite painful. When I look carefully at my setup with a Bon Musica I see that the edge of the violin does come within a hair's breadth of my collarbone, so I wonder if some kind of hardfoam strip around the back edge of the violin, thus not affecting the tone, is all that's needed. The problem, as ever, is how to fix it to the violin.
Or maybe it's just about finding the right place for that gel pad? There are one or two little pads you can buy, and I've got some (e.g. for my 'silent' EV), but decluttering means they are in boxes where only the underpants gnomes can find them.
Andrew
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A good way to avoid practising - change a string.
My Prim A was harsh (it is out on a limb on the sound charts), and my teacher's Vision Solo A beautifully mellow, although she does have a very nice Italian violin on loan. I've never asked about her bow.
I had Vision Solo G and D already on, so I decided to add a Vision Solo A this afternoon. I had only kept the Prim A for 10 weeks, which is a bit wasteful.
Gordon Shumway said
I wonder if some kind of hardfoam strip around the back edge of the violin, thus not affecting the tone, is all that's needed. The problem, as ever, is how to fix it to the violin.
Or maybe it's just about finding the right place for that gel pad? There are one or two little pads you can buy, and I've got some (e.g. for my 'silent' EV), but decluttering means they are in boxes where only the underpants gnomes can find them.
In fact there's always the possibility of just wearing something inside my shirt. I had to use a rolled up violin blanket at one orchestra rehearsal, and it was better than I expected, although I doubt teacher would approve. That's the thing about lessons. You do what your teacher tells you, then when you've learnt, you can do your own thing because you know what you're comparing it with.
Andrew
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I don't use practice mutes, but I do have quite a collection of orchestral mutes.
Currently on violin and viola I have Roth Sihons.
I had a copper-coloured Spector, which was my favourite (best combination of sound and speed of use and not vibrating or rattling and staying put), but, although I wasn't using it all the time, it quickly started to get loose on the bridge and didn't work properly. I diagnosed the problem, rightly or wrongy, as rubber being worn from the grooves by the D and A strings.
In case the brown rubber is softer than the black rubber, I just ordered a couple of black Spectors - and in case my Roth Sihons start doing nasty things to my string afterlengths.
The Shield mute with brass insert is OK, but not as rattle-free as the Stentor, unless I abuse the string windings, which I'm wary of doing. Simple tourtes are liable to rattle around too much.
Andrew
Verified human - the ignominy!
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