Welcome to our forum. A Message To Our New and Prospective Members . Check out our Forum Rules. Lets keep this forum an enjoyable place to visit.
Private messaging is working again.








Most tuners are set to 440hz which is the frequency of the A string and when in an orchestra setting, an A will be played generally from the oboe for everyone to tune to. The A on an oboe is actually at 443hz.
In answer to your question though, ask your teacher why he or she wants you to tune the D first? Your teacher may have a very valid reason for wanting you to do it that way.

I've alway's heard to start with the A string first too. Tuning the A to 440 hz then tuning down to the D and G in perfect fifth's, to be tuned in pair's. Myself, I still can't do that, I have to use some sort of tuning device. My thought's before were maybe starting more to the center of the bridge for equal pressure, I dunno.

Pro advisor
Regulars
I have found that not tuning in order A, D, G, E causes the tuned strings to go out of tune when you get around to the A string. In my own experience, tuning G first then A causes the G to go out of tune. I believe its the pressure on the bridge exerted at certain points. Im sure theres a physics explanation regarding the best order of tuning. However, I dont know it.
"Please play some wrong notes, so that we know that you are human" - said to Jascha Heifetz.

Honorary tenured advisor
Regulars

This doesn't exactly answer the question, but is related.
During tuning I hit the side edges of the bridge with little fillips to stabilize things. My idea is that that will cause the bridge to reach a stable position on the belly and cause the strings to be stable in their notches. Also sometimes I press down equally on the lengths and afterlengths of each string.
Does it do any good? How would I know?

Regulars
I guess if you do the G string first you are lifting the bridge at the E string. Only an infinitesimal amount but it will move .
So by the time you tune the E string, the pressure is equalised so the G string will be out of tune again.
I guess if you have a 5 string instrument, starting with the middle string will equalise the pressure across the bridge from the start.
Just my 2p worth, as I have no sense, sorry cents......
I am amazed at how old people of my age are.....

Honorary tenured advisor
Regulars

When I pick up the fiddle, I try to tell---or should I say guess---by ear alone whether any are out of tune. Then I use the electronic tuner and play all four strings in a row, noting which ones are out of tune and approximately how much. If any are out of tune, I turn all the fine tuners of the out-of-tune strings the estimated amounts needed---without playing any strings---and give the bridge a little whack from each side with my middle fingernail as mentioned in my post above. Then I start again---playing all four again to know whether they are all in tune yet.
So in a sense I tune them all at the same time, not in a sequence.

If i have PC on - i check strings with FiddlerMan's tuner and can start to tune from any string i wish. If the PC is off - i use a pipe whistling tuner - this one is E, or i can use camerton A and start from A. Didn't notice any difference. Whatever i start with - i check it again after i tune them all, and then double check =) It's much quickier than it sounds, lmao =)
1 Guest(s)

