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. I doubt professional players stop during a performance and wipe their strings down to get rid of rosin.
Actually before my last student concert my instructor had us wipe down the strings and said she does it before performing to get rid of any caked on rosin.
Youre probably onto something about the humidity and temperature.
When I saw the thread title, I was going to joke, "get some Chinese summer rosin".
Forgive me, I have attention problems, especially online, and, no offence, but your posts are always quite long, CID, but in case I have got the right understanding of what you are asking, if where you live is really hot and humid, then you will maybe want to use the lightest, hardest rosin you can find - it will literally melt in the heat, and that's why it is sometimes disparagingly called "Chinese summer rosin" - it's that little rectangular piece of pale glass you always get in a cheap Chinese violin outfit. If you live somewhere cold and dry, then darker, softer rosins will have similar properties, but will maybe turn nearly to liquid in a Chinese summer.
That's my understanding, so it could be wrong.
I can guess that the rosins on offer from any maker will tend to depend on where they are made and what the climate is there. For example, Hidersine are English, and I guess their rosins are designed for the English climate, where we don't often have Chinese summers (to put it mildly), so they only offer amber and dark (curiously I noticed in the very small print just recently that the dark is mainly intended for steel strings).
Try some Hidersine 1C (amber, C for cello, 1 meaning large cake, I think), and tell me what you think.
Here's an example, but, although it's Amazon, get it from the Fiddlershop if you can, and I apologise for the commercial link, Pierre.
However, I see this link under it, and it's the same price, so it may be as good, and it looks very pale indeed (it seems to be Austrian - I have lived in the Alps, and in the summer it can be very hot and very humid) very pale rosin link. So you could go for the extreme just to see. In fact, from the photos, I can see that it's not intended for cello, but I think if all you want is to try a hard rosin, then it may not matter.
But the idea is, the bigger the strings, the more stickiness is required to get them vibrating, so sticky fingers may be the curse of the cellist, and the double bassist (on re-reading, I think I misunderstood you there. How often do you clean your strings with alcohol? My teacher recommends cheap cologne, about twice a week, I think she said, but use the tiniest amounts on a cloth, so that there's no dripping at all onto varnish or anything).
This is an aside, as I've edited my first post at least 10 times and I just can't risk making it incoherent!
Gordon Shumway said
However, I see this link under it, and it's the same price, so it may be as good, but I don't know the maker, but it looks very pale indeed (it seems to be Austrian - I have lived in the Alps, and in the summer it can be very hot and very humid).
That link is the first time I have ever seen such pale rosin sold as a round professional cake, rather than as a tiny plastic-encased brick.
"Chinese summer rosin", I have noticed tends to imply it is made in Austria or made to an Austrian recipe, at least. Why would that be? It may be that Austria's climate (like some of Germany's) is very hot and humid in the summer, like some of China's climate, or it may be that Austria has lots of suitable pine trees. Or maybe rosin was invented in Austria? You'll have to Google the history of rosin.
I think you could reasonably infer from all this that rosin made in the USA may be best for you. America seems to have enough trees, lol! Pierre must know the answer to that one and have some good ideas.
Ski wax is great fun if you do langlauf/cross-country.
If your skis have scales, then you just put the hardest wax on each end, but you get scaleless, and then you put hard wax on each end, but in the middle you put wax that's just soft enough to grip the snow and ice underfoot when you press your foot down to bring the middle of the ski into contact with the ground. And the grip you get depends on the temperature and snow conditions and the wax has to be matched to them. That's for pros and racers. If you're an amateur, you're best off just getting scales and spray-on hardwax for the ends. I can't remember if you put spraywax on the scales. It was 35 years ago. I do now remember ironing hard wax onto the ends and scraping them for smoothness, so there must be a spray for the scales. Makes sense.
And well done, me, that would easily qualify as tangential/circumstantial in an Asperger's diagnosis!