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My bridge has 4 cracks in it. This bridge has been on Vanessa for over 3 months. In that time it has been lowered, reduced in height and work done on the feet (Vanessa has dimples under the feet). Two days ago I filed out the kidneys and the heart to test response. This morning while tuning I noticed the 4 cracks one each going from the heart to each kidney and two cracks coming from the e string area. I was surprised.
So now I am making another bridge though I am not quite certain on how thin to make it this time, she has a thick top plate.
I have made 7 bridges from blanks. I have to say, honestly, of all that I have done during my project violin a year ago and to replacing several "Standard" items on a cheaper Chinese violin, the Bridge is the hardest of all to get right.
The tapir and somewhat beveled edge, the graduated height across the top, keeping the strings the proper height and spacing from the finger board - across - the entire length of the strings. Then there's the footing contour and the Media taken off at the hip,waist and shoulder. I think, unless you just take a stock blank and "rough" cut your best go - then be done, you may find it worth the $35 to just have a Luthier complete it. Of course, it seems easy enough, and it is if you just want a string holder, but there's ALOT going on between the string rests and the face plate of your instrument.
Just some food for thought. Whatever you decide, I hope it turns out great. Post what you find and what is sounds like.
"I find your lack of Fiddle, disturbing" - Darth Vader
Between 4-5 mm at the base should be good. It could be thicker but if you go too thin, you will risk having a bridge that will warp very easily. You can always test the violin with a thicker bridge and gradually narrow her down.
I agree. you don't want it too thick to too thin.
Playing a piece is easy... Playing it right is not...