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I got myself a Gliga Gems I and I'm just not happy with the way it plays. It just doesn't seem to play as easily as my Cecilio CVN-200. It sounds better, but getting notes out is just a little more work
I thought it might be the sound post.
So I got the tools and stock and tried pulling it out and making another one to match. I have a precision caliper and cut the new sound post 1 mm shorter. This was way too short and it wouldn't even touch the top and bottom at the same time.
So I put the old one back in and the violin sounds different. As near as I can tell, the sound post is a little further back then originally, and I think, too far back. I've seen the video about where to place it. I'm going to play it for a little while and try moving it forward. It still doesn't play as easily as the Cecilio*.
Trying to place the sound post is pretty tough, at this point, I just feel lucky to get it back in place.
I was thinking the sound post was too tight, and it did seem a little hard coming out, but went back in pretty easily.
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*I've lowered the strings on my Cecilio, and that might make a difference too. That's next for the Gliga.
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Congratulations on getting it back in. I suspect you about to discover how minuscule adjustments can make huge differences.
A positive attitude may not solve all your problems, but it will annoy enough people to make it worth the effort. ~Herm Albright
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When it comes to adjusting soundposts, it feels like an open-heart surgery, lol.
cheers! - ⁰ℨ
If you are in a hurry setting a sound post is no fun, but if you have plenty of time then it can be. Though marking the position on a very good violin is a definite no no, a student level violin can be marked without harm. I shaved two sides of a regular pencil so that it would fit into the f hole and marked the original position and then the next etc. I keep a sheet on the sounds at each location. I have seen a person cut a credit card and use that as a measuring tool as a more accurate method, but eyeballing has been good enough for me.
The important thing for me is that I use one tune to judge the sound and only that tune. I will also say this,,,when you do get the post in the right spot the sound will almost bring tears,,it really is that powerful.
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MrYikes said
If you are in a hurry setting a sound post is no fun, but if you have plenty of time then it can be. Though marking the position on a very good violin is a definite no no, a student level violin can be marked without harm. I shaved two sides of a regular pencil so that it would fit into the f hole and marked the original position and then the next etc. I keep a sheet on the sounds at each location. I have seen a person cut a credit card and use that as a measuring tool as a more accurate method, but eyeballing has been good enough for me.
The important thing for me is that I use one tune to judge the sound and only that tune. I will also say this,,,when you do get the post in the right spot the sound will almost bring tears,,it really is that powerful.
Do you also mark the top? Or do you just make sure the post is upright and mark the bottom only? Do you mark adjacent to the post, or where?
I'll keep trying, that's encouraging.
Please understand that I don't know what I'm doing,,I just keep trying. I make one mark in the violin and explain that mark on my paper. I loosen the a and e only. I have played with the sound post (at one time I put in two just to hear the results) at many many locations, some made sense, some were just silly. I have had the sp tilted and leaning, barely touching, rammed tight, moved way inward, way back, under the bridge, and way out (almost to the f hole). Two violins are Crescent brand (the $30 ebay) and they are very different from each other with different sp locations. But one of them now has a really good sound.
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Hey, you found the right spot. Sounds to me (and you too) like you know what you are doing.
I suppose the difference is being able to sit down and get the same results in 15 minutes or less.
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the sound post should fit perpendicular to the face and back. The post also should be as close to possible to the shape inside the back and face. The more surface area of the post that correctly touches the violin surface (on both ends), the more acoustic energy will travel from the back of the face into the body. Too much pressure can crack the violin, too little and you won't get the transfer.
If you are having a hard time lining it up, you can, if you're careful, loosen the strings, remove the bridge and pull out the end pin. You can look through the end pin hole to set the post. It should be long enough to hold itself in place without the bridge pressure. just be careful putting the bridge back on or you could knock it over.
"I find your lack of Fiddle, disturbing" - Darth Vader
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