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Hi all. I am about to make some "folding" practice violins and the biggest technical challenge was how to keep the strings attached to the tailpiece when the violin was disassembled. A "baroque" style tailpiece has 4 small holes to retain the string ball ends and would be ideal for my use. Unfortunately, most that I have seen also have 2 small holes on the other end to secure the tailpiece gut loop. I wanted to use conventional nylon gut loops. After searching eBay, I did find someone selling ebony baroque tailpieces that met my desires. I purchased 10, and will post how they look when they make their slow way from China.
I need the same thing for a cello, but unfortunately the seller has none of these. If I can find nothing else, I will make due with a kevlar cord to a conventional baroque cello tailpiece.
Here is my first reaction and posted without any thought, so take it as that.. Why not just use loop ends and not balls? Take the peg end of string down through hole in tail then up through the loop and then to the peg. The string is captured.
And just for information, I purchased a pack of 20 normal tail cords from china cheap. A couple of them failed when tensioned, leaving marks on the violin. The cords FM sells is higher quality as you would expect. They do not fail. Further, everything FM sells is that way. He has done the tedious work of finding the good and passing the bad.
My FM soloist has FM strings, FM shoulder rest, FM boxwood tail, FM tail cord, using FM carbon bow and it should have a FM chin rest,,,,but we are all waiting on that one. hint hint.
It has been fun working on my cheaper instruments, knowing that if I mess up its not life changing and it is also fun looking for bargains, but when it comes to the better quality, we here always head to FM.
When I was traveling in a rock band I made a practice set of drums using plumbing pipe, 3/4" plywood with rubber tops for drums. Everybody appreciated my efforts. No one wants to hear a drummer practice.
On your violin and cello you might want to consider glue on the sound post and bridge, or even cut the bridge tall enough to make holes for the string to pass through, that way the bridge is always captured.
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