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Willow Wood Violin?
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Maine, USA
November 12, 2013 - 9:40 pm
Member Since: November 6, 2013
Forum Posts: 3
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Hi everyone! I was just wondering about a violin I saw. It has a willow wood back , and I was wondering what this type of wood would do to the sound quality/tone. This is the model:{27}12245{6}47{7}1823{8}2102{9}2251{10}683


Has anyone had any experience with this type of violin? I noticed the age rings in the willow are a bit wider too, does this effect the sound? One more question I have is about bridges. I found a Teller Germany bridge with a fitted "U" shape ebony piece for the "E" string, and is pre-notched; any ideas on if this may assist in creating a nicer tone?

Byron Bay Australia

November 12, 2013 - 10:29 pm
Member Since: April 22, 2012
Forum Posts: 1575
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I don't know anything about the willow but the Teller bridge has the ebony insert to stop the very thin E string from cutting into the timber and the notching gives the correct string placement and keeps them from moving out of position. I don't think that either 'creates' a nicer tone. The Teller bridge's quality alone makes them a good choice.

I could be wrong and I'm sure someone will correct me if I am


I had a look at the violin link. It's a nice looking violin. It will be interesting to see if anyone knows more about the willow

Seen it all. Done it all. Can't remember most of dunno ..... What was I saying???? facepalm

King for a Day, Peasant for many

November 13, 2013 - 4:24 pm
Member Since: February 13, 2012
Forum Posts: 1815
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A "pre-notched" bridge is really of very little use unless it just happens to be tall enough to be able to shape the feet properly to fit the top of YOUR violin. Also, just a FYI note:

The notches on the 'shoulder' of the bridge are best left to less than a 1/3 of the diameter of your strings, which obviously there are many strings with different diameters. The insert on the E string is a good thing and I use Teller bridges often on violins I setup and repair from time to time.

Shaping the feet to your violin top is done first, then the height is determined depending on your preference and the strings used, then the top shoulder is shaped properly for your preference or the semi-standard 42mm curved shape and the string 'notches' which are semi-circular (not Vee shaped) in shape to cradle the string and not allow the string to "sink" too deeply into the wood. Hope this helps a little.

"If you practice with your hands you must practice all day. Practice with your mind and you can accomplish the same amount in minutes." Nathan Milstein

Michigan, USA

November 13, 2013 - 8:58 pm
Member Since: January 21, 2012
Forum Posts: 2647
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How ironic,, I was at my luthier's shop this past Saturday and we were talking about violin quality. He said that the Romanian violin maker's concentrate more on the look's of a violin as opposed to the sound quality. He said they are not what they were years ago.

Maine, USA
November 14, 2013 - 12:41 am
Member Since: November 6, 2013
Forum Posts: 3
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Thanks for the info everyone! By the sound of it I may shy away from the Gliga. I think I might go with the Fiddlerman Concert violin, but I need to sell my other instrument first. ^.^

Kent, Washington USA
Honorary tenured advisor

November 14, 2013 - 12:52 am
Member Since: October 14, 2012
Forum Posts: 550
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I think FM Concert violin is your better choice. I myself got 2 of the Gliga Professional line, almost top of the line, and still having some issues with it, particularly the violin sounding and wolf tone issues, so their entry/student grade violin may suffer more, IMHO.

Good luck with your violin.



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