@ELCBK and others.  Regarding proper taper, we may need to do a deep dive.

The general scientific geometric model assumes an expression of taper from the Tourte  violin bows.  This was done by W.S.B. Woolhouse.  The variable h denotes the distance of any part of the bow from the head.

diameter, mm = 5.08 (log(h + 184) - 1.2150)

diameter, inch = 0.2 (log(h + 7.25) - 9.81)

It is also possible to create a taper directly from measurement of an existing implement.  My taper form has a 4 inch adjustment interval, so relatively few measurements need to be made in this regard. 

Another taper problem is that the mechanical properties of bamboo are different from wood.  I should be able to make the bamboo bow thinner (and lighter) than a wood counter part.  I see many carbon fibre bows that mimic the dimensions of wood bows.  I suspect that the mandrels were created without regard to the relative strength of the underlying materials and more toward aesthetic properties.

The gold standard glue for bamboo rod making was called resorcinol.  This must have been a brand name since I cannot find any.  I think this is the same material.  Please let me know if I am mistaken.

Completed hand plane on segment of prototype planing form.  Now I have to make a 48” version of the planing form.

@ELCBK .  Once the raw strips are created (I plan to use a wood band saw with a thin curf metal cutting blade), only one set of carbide inserts will be used to shape the strips.  I have three cutting edges on each insert and I am told that I can swap the inserts left to right to double potential use out of them.  I got the inserts for $1 each shipped from China, so durability is not an economic issue.

Another insert holder will be used to form the frog end bore needed for the frog advancing screw.  The same insert holder could be used to remove material from the interior if it is deemed desirable to lighten the stick.  I do not know if glue will just fill the channel.  Experimentation will be necessary to answer this.

I do not think it will be necessary for me to straighten the bamboo using the material I have selected.  I will remove moisture and roast the strips in a vacuum oven for a few minutes.

The C shaped burner in video is indeed very interesting.  It is likely from a European manufacture.  I have not been able to source one yet.  

I have a photo of a cross sectional view of a conventional six sided bamboo bow.  My goal is to have something similar, but with eight sides.

The hand plane is going to remove a few thousands of an inch of material with each stroke.  It utilizes three bolts (a limit stop, a push stop, and a pull stop) to adjust cutter height, and two will need adjustment for each pass.  This device is adequate for “proof of concept.”  But something faster that would form a completed strip on one pass would obvious be better for production.

This device (based on a Stanley power plane) will do just that.  Commercial router bits are not available in the geometry needed, so the user made sanding disks (see photo below.  I think I could recut bits to the proper shape given access to a wire EDM device or similar.

A final approach of constructing a bow head I am considering is an elegant solution employed by the French bow maker Gilles Nehr (see photo).  The nice thing about this approach is that I could use a Cricut Cake machine to cut out the wax shapes and make the heads using investment casting (which I have never tried).  Once the basic shape is designed, it should be possible to make it bigger or smaller by the computerized scale function for the various string instruments and fractions thereof.