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My bridge popped out earlier and I have successfully replaced it.
On closer inspection, looking at it from the side view it seems to have a different profile on one side to the other.
One side is definitely flat whilst the other side has a slightly convex form.
Is this a design? And if so does it matter if it flat-side toward the fingerboard or vice versa?
I am amazed at how old people of my age are.....

Honorary advisor
Regulars
The bridge is generally planed on the fingerboard side to a slight angle, but the side toward the tailpiece (where the logo or stamp is) is left perfectly flat. It should not be curved on either side - this may be a sign that it's warping and will need to be replaced soon.
Mary in Springfield, Oregon http://www.thefiddleandbanjopr.....dpress.com

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Honorary advisor
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Terry said
Thanks Cat, I'll get a spare in readiness. Should I plane/sand the new one to the same size as my current bridge! (before it breaks!)
That's what I did on the fiddle I recently refurbished. The bridge was badly warped, but the string clearance was correct and the top arch made playing very easy. I first trimmed down the feet and then matched the top arch. Works pretty well, even if I say it myself
You'll need to verify the proper string clearance with the old bridge first, but this can vary a bit - if you find it easy to play, then it's right for you even if it doesn't quite meet Traditional Specs.
Use a very sharp knife and do be careful not to cut yourself - ask me how I know
Mary in Springfield, Oregon http://www.thefiddleandbanjopr.....dpress.com

King


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Thanks guys, this is all great advice. I do find (as a beginner) that I have a problem playing the A string. The profile of the bridge is quite flat where it supports this string and whilst eventually I want to play Celtic music with my sailing buddies, so this profile would be easier for double stops I guess but at the moment it's a pain!
So I might experiment with a 'slightly' more pronounced curve, giving me just one or two degrees more bow clearance from the D and E strings.
Whaddya reckon?
I am amazed at how old people of my age are.....

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King


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Oliver said
What is your problem playing the "A" string ? Just bad string crossings ?
If you mean moving from one string to the other, yeh! I'm not too bad on the others, just that d**n A string. Maybe its slot in the bridge is a little deeper, as the bridge profile matches the fingerboard when viewed longitudinally from the tailpiece end (although the bridge was 3-4mm offset, which is why it jumped out originally as i was 'gently' coaxing it back in line)
I am amazed at how old people of my age are.....

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cdennyb said
Here's a look down my fingerboard. Does yours look the same?
Maybe it'll help to get the shape right on your next bridge build.
See the major seperation between the strings? especially the center two?
This is for the spacing recommended for synthetic core strings (Which I ordered from FM last week and should have by next week.)
Mine is slightly different. More like the profile of a wing, or a sail looked at from above. A more pronounced curve at the G and D, then flatter between D and E.
I'll see if I can upload a picture of it.
I have some Zyex strings on order from Fiddlerman so might adopt this shape bridge when I fit them.
I am amazed at how old people of my age are.....

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King

The problem with all this theory is that it is tempting to do all kinds of tricks at the bridge BUT that's not where most music is played. Most of the geometric tricks are dissipated by the time one reachs the nut. Gone !
(Those viola guys got it easy!)
When you come to a fork in the road, take it.

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Oliver said
The problem with all this theory is that it is tempting to do all kinds of tricks at the bridge BUT that's not where most music is played. Most of the geometric tricks are dissipated by the time one reachs the nut. Gone !
(Those viola guys got it easy!)
haha, which nut? the one at the scroll? or the one on the frog end of the bow?
I am amazed at how old people of my age are.....
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