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You will find, if you work on enough violins, that some players like a very close distance on the G and E strings and some like it larger. I have a personal preference because it affects my "speed" of note changes. If the string is a larger distance off the f'board it takes longer to finger that note and move to the next without making an in-inadvertent "slide" out of it. Some people like the strings as close as can be done without any buzzing, and also remember that if you set up the heights for steel strings and then go to synthetic core at a strings change, they might buzz if you're close because they vibrate more.

I have found my personal preference is 5mm on the G string and 3mm on the E string with a 42mm radius for the bridge top.

I achieve that by using a small square stick I have which has an appropriate dimension created by sanding it to a point that's offset. One side is 3mm the other is 5mm so it's a 8mm square wooden stick.

I lay it on the f'board beside the corresponding string position and slide it up against the bridge. This is where I make a pencil mark and then lay the template for the 42mm radius so that it intersects both marks and that's my cut-to line.

All of that is done after the final sanding on the feet of course. And you want to thin the bridge and shape it near the top before the final last sanding to achieve the string heights you want.

I make the top or "shoulder" of the bridge 1 to 1.5mm in width. The E string side is usually sporting a skin patch over it for wood protection so the final width is a little more so that's why the thinner area on that side.

You can see on the chart from the sound analysis that even minor work done to the bridge can enhance or destroy the sound quality produced. It's a trial & error game for sure and I've spent many hours shaping, trimming, testing, and reshaping retrimming, and retesting to achieve decent sounding results that are better than original.