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Gordon Shumway said
Currently happy. Although I thought Oct 18th was my 5th anniversary of violin playing, as my first violin lesson was 18/10/18, but now I find I bought a book on shifting in July 2018 from Amazon, so I'm now guessing I began on about my 58th birthday, which means my 5th anniversary has been and gone....
Rosin = Guillaume for a long time....
There's a new rosin thread on VCom, but I don't want to add to it too much too soon.
My own experience is that I needed almost 5 years of violin playing before I could predict what tone I'd get from my violin before picking it up each day. Until then, like many other beginners, my tone varied from day to day, beyond my control, and I was trying different strings and different rosins. But it really is the case that, after you do a basic match of strings to violin*, your right arm is 90% responsible for the tone you create, and your vibrato for 9%. Bow and rosin contribute 1% or less between them.
*Currently my strings are still: -
G and D = Vision
A = Vision Solo (because the open Vision A sounded feeble, but that may have been my fault)
E = Prim. All bright because my violin is warm. I have Evah Pirazzis and I will try Warchal Brilliants, but unfortunately I still have a set of Tonicas and a set of Dominants to use up.
Andrew
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Climates are difficult - I get the impression that in the USA everyone has Aircon, in which case the climate is irrelevant.
If you do have extremes of hot/humid and cold/dry, then stick to Hill light and dark, but until you've learnt how to use your right arm, "stick" is the operative word. You'll change from day to day, so changing rosin from day to day is just too many changing variables. You'll be the problem, not your gear, until you've reached a certain standard.
Matching bright strings to a warm violin or warm strings to a bright violin and any light rosin to a hot humid climate and any dark rosin to a cold dry climate should be the basic match. Then after that all the fine tuning lies with you. You won't become Itzhak Perlman by finding exactly the right string/rosin combo.
Yes, in the UK, the climate is moderate in almost every way, so a moderate rosin like Guillaume works. I don't find it creates much dust.
My Evah Pirazzis are in a green packet.
Andrew
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Gordon Shumway said
...my schedule until mid September next year is: -Vivaldi Autumn ...
I bought the Schirmer edition. It's horribly over-edited, so I ordered the Baerenreiter edition (and I have the Dover scores of opera 3 and 8. They are very good.).
What about IMSLP?
Yes, for my purposes, I could have gone there, but be warned there is rubbish in IMSLP.
Spot the mistake in bar 2 in these:
Andrew
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@Gordon Shumway -
Thanks for pointing out issues with editions of Vivaldi's "Autumn".
Since Classical scores have been transcribed and arranged numerous times, by different people (including publishers) - how can we truly be sure of what's correct?
Does a copyright suffice?
I was just thinking of all the music that has been digitized, like the Digital Interactive Mozart Edition - information still passed thru human hands to make this, with possible errors.
The History of Music Publication is interesting.
The earliest attempt at a printed musical copyright notice appears in the "Shir Hashirim" of Salomone Rossi (Venice, 1623) which includes a rabbinical curse on those infringing the text, written by Leon of Modena. (Wikipedia)
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For a lot of pieces we can't be absolutely sure of what's correct. But the best editions are often urtext editions that attempt to recreate the composer's intent as much as possible, and come with extensive annotations disclosing their source material, all the possible ambiguities, and justifications for their decisions.
If there isn't an urtext edition, it's best to go with editions that disclose what the editor did from markings in the source material, which is often done by placing the editor's markings in parenthesis or grayscale or detailed in accompanying annotations.
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AndrewH said
For a lot of pieces we can't be absolutely sure of what's correct. But the best editions are often urtext editions that attempt to recreate the composer's intent as much as possible, and come with extensive annotations disclosing their source material, all the possible ambiguities, and justifications for their decisions.If there isn't an urtext edition, it's best to go with editions that disclose what the editor did from markings in the source material, which is often done by placing the editor's markings in parenthesis or grayscale or detailed in accompanying annotations.
Thank you!
I had no idea what to look for.
🤔... if at all possible, think I'd prefer to use 2 editions of any Classical piece - 1 to learn from (with every possible bit of info marked/notated) and 1 really clean version (with the least possible markings) to perform/sightread with.
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I meant to use the word "distinguish what the editor did" than "disclose what the editor did" (forgot to change that word when I went back and changed orher phrasing) but I think the meaning got through.
Some urtext editions actually come with two copies of the piece, for exactly the purpose you've suggested. For example, the Bärenreiter urtext edition I got for the Hoffmeister viola concerto included two copies of the viola part, one with recommended fingerings/bowings and editorial notes, and one much cleaner copy. But in general, most of the annotations are on separate pages so they don't get in the way of reading the music.
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Three weeks on a hard, narrow campbed at the folks' place have resulted in a pinched nerve in my left shoulder. It doesn't actually hurt (more than usual) when I play the violin, but I do get bad pins and needles in my left fingers when our orchestra plays a gig and I don't get a rest. That's probably due to practice involving constant stopping and starting, so that stamina doesn't get built up. But, with an eye on the anatomy websites, examining the shoulders for veins and arteries and nerves (if you've had an angiogram or -plasty, you'll know the sensation of the motion inside the artery in your right shoulder), I'm looking for a simple, comfortable sponge shoulder rest. Sainsbury's Basics scourers are the right thickness. Three glued together side by side with a gelpad to attach them to the violin might work. (car sponges and rubber bands are too cumbersome and not sure to be safe for the violin)
Andrew
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Unfortunately that teacher is fully booked, but they've got another one 0.8 miles from me.
Since orchestra is now over for Christmas I swapped my strings. After 18 months of Visions (but Vision Solo A and Prim E, I think it was), I put on a full set of Evah Pirazzis. I don't think I like them as much as the Visions.
Andrew
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Disaster!
After a year of confidence in my tone and boasting about it, I put on Evah Pirazzis and hate them. My confidence is nil and I've got a lesson booked for Feb 8th.
Today I took the EPs off after only two weeks and have put on Warchal Brilliant Vintage instead. If they don't do it for me, I'm going back to Visions and I'm not messing about changing string brand any more, ever! (although Infeld Blue might be worth a try)
I'm at my flat without an earplug in my left ear, which may be making a difference, but I didn't even like the EPs with an earplug in.
Andrew
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"..Today I took the EPs off after only two weeks and have put on Warchal Brilliant Vintage instead. If they don't do it for me, I'm going back to Visions and I'm not messing about changing string brand any more, ever! (although Infeld Blue might be worth a try)
lol.. i love it!
Im taking youre having some fun with gear talk there. Its difficult to avoid the next best thing when it comes to strings..rosin.. BOWS..I have story about that if i get courage to divuldge.. etc...
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I am often to be heard complaining that there is no comfortable combination of chin and shoulder rest.
My first chinrest was the usual Guarneri, as with 99% of beginners.
I didn't like it. I bought a Hill Guarneri. Didn't like it.
A new violin came with a Teka which was comfortable for a while, but then I replaced it with an ultra-high Teka because I wanted the violin closer to my shoulder.
Then I bought a Berber, which was OK for a while.
Now I am using the Hill Guarneri again and I like it a lot, as it's the one that extends farthest to the left, and I can't play the bass strings unless I am over the top of them.
Sheesh!
(the shoulder rest is a Wolf Secondo, before you ask. I hadn't been enjoying that either, but it's ok with the Hill)
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Incidentally, some of you may have noticed that all my chinrests are centre-mounted. This is deliberate - resonance patterns reveal nodes in the centre, so in theory a centre-mounted chinrest will have least effect on the top's resonance.
However, the people who measure these patterns seem to have done it with tops not glued to the sides of the violin, as once glued the resonance pattern must have a node all around the top.
Andrew
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